11 November 2010

Boeuf en daube


I still don't know what is the difference between "Boeuf Bourguignon" and "Boeuf en Daube".  I usually make "Boeuf Bourguignon" as I leaned in France, but this time, I tried this recipe of Boeuf en Daube from French chef  Christian Delouvrier who used to be the head of "Lespinasse" in New York, which seems that it's closed now.

The key of this recipe is long marination.  I marinated the beef chuck in red wine with onion, garlic, carrot, celery and bouquet garni for five days in the fridge.  You might find it surprise for such a long marination but it really enhances the flavor.  As long as you keep the meat in the fridge, it doesn't get bad.

Strain the beef and the vegetable from wine then separate beef and the vegetables.  On the side, boil the wine in small pot, remove the scums.  Dry the meat with cooking paper then brown the meat only the outside with butter.  Remove the meat, then saute the marinade vegetables in the same pot then add some flour.  Put back the meat to the pot of vegetables, then add pure of tomato, tomato paste, cube of beef stock, boiled red wine and some fresh red wine.  Slow cook the pot for two to three hours.

「ブフオンドーブ」というフランス式の牛肉のワイン煮。実はこれと「ブフボーギニョン」(ブルゴーニュ風ワイン煮)との違いがいまいち良く分からない。このレシピの鍵は肉を長くマリネすること。これは牛(肩肉がよい)をワインとタマネギ、人参、セロリ、にんにく、ブーケガルニに冷蔵庫で5日間漬け込んだ。冷蔵庫に入れておけば肉は1週間程ワインにマリネしても問題ない。驚く程肉の質感がしっとりし、ワインが染み込んで美味しくなる。

その後はマリネ液から肉と野菜類を分けて引き上げる。一方でマリネのワインは小鍋で一煮立ちさせ、灰汁を除く。肉はペーパータオルで水分を除く。始めにバターで肉の外側だけを焼き、取り出す。次に同じ鍋でマリネの野菜をソーテーし、最後に小麦粉を絡めて炒める。

その鍋に肉を戻し、トマトピューレ、トマトペースト、ビーフストック(固形、フォンドボーがあれば尚良い)、湧かしたワイン、更に赤ワインを足して入れて2、3時間極弱火で煮込む。

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